How We Set the Cam Timing on a Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera Engine – A Detailed Workshop Walkthrough

Here at Stuttgart Spares, we work on classic Porsche engines every week—rebuilds, restorations, troubleshooting, and all the small but critical jobs that keep an air-cooled 911 running the way Porsche intended. Recently, we carried out a full cam timing adjustment on a Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera engine, and we documented the entire process.

Because so many owners and home builders ask about how the timing is set on these engines, we’ve turned that real workshop job into this long-form guide.

This post will walk you through exactly how we timed the 3.2 Carrera cams, what tools we used, and the little details that make a massive difference to engine performance.

Why Cam Timing Is So Important on a 3.2 Carrera

When we rebuild or refresh an air-cooled engine, the cam timing is one of the biggest contributors to how the engine breathes and performs. On the Porsche 911 3.2 flat-six, correct camshaft timing affects:

  • Idle quality

  • Mid-range torque

  • High-rpm power

  • Fuel efficiency

  • Valve-to-piston clearance

  • Overall engine smoothness

If the timing is off—even by a small amount—the engine feels wrong. When we timed this particular 3.2 engine, the owner reported a slightly uneven idle and a flat mid-range. Once we checked the lift readings, it was obvious the timing was out and needed correcting.

Tools & Parts We Used in the Workshop

Our Equipment

  • Porsche Z-block and dial indicator

  • Dial gauge with 10mm of travel

  • Cam sprocket holding tool

  • Chain tensioner locking clips

  • Torque wrench set

  • 27mm crankshaft pulley wrench

  • Feeler gauges

  • Standard engine rebuild tool kit

Parts Sourced From Our Own Stock

  • Cam sprocket bolts

  • Porsche 911 3.2 gaskets & seals

  • Timing chain tensioner tools

  • Loctite 574 for sealing work

  • Replacement oil return tubes (they’re cheap insurance during a rebuild)

Everything we used is available under the Porsche 911 3.2 Engine Mechanical section on our site.

Preparing the Engine for Timing

Before setting the cams, we carried out the usual checklist:

✔ Spark plugs removed for easier crank rotation
✔ Timing chains and guides installed correctly
✔ Tensioners locked in place
✔ Cam sprocket bolts left finger tight
✔ Intake rockers installed for cylinder #1 and #4
✔ Valves set roughly to base clearance

Once the engine rotated smoothly and everything was aligned, we moved on to the timing process.

Understanding the Markings

When we do a 3.2 Carrera cam timing, we always double-check:

  • The Z1 crankshaft mark is clean and visible

  • The cam housing alignment line is clear

  • The cam flange mark is correctly positioned

This particular engine had faint marks, so we cleaned and re-painted them for accuracy.

Factory Timing Specification

For the Porsche 3.2 Carrera, we always work to the official spec:

  • 1.25mm ± 0.10mm intake lift at overlap

  • Measured at 0.1mm valve clearance

This is the sweet spot for smooth idle, good torque, and factory driving characteristics.

How We Timed the Cams on This 3.2 Carrera

1. Setting Bank 1 – Cylinder #1

We rotated the crank clockwise until the Z1 mark aligned with the case parting line.
Then we checked that the #1 intake rocker was on the base circle.

On this engine, the cam’s Woodruff key was pointing upward, confirming we were on the compression stroke, not overlap—this catches many DIY builders out.

2. Installing the Dial Indicator

We mounted the Z-block over the cam housing and positioned the dial gauge on the #1 intake retainer.
Zeroed the gauge.
Applied 0.1mm of valve clearance.

Then we rotated the engine clockwise until the intake valve reached its maximum lift—and then backed off to overlap to get an accurate reading at Z1.

3. Adjusting the Cam Sprocket

The initial measurement was 1.05mm, slightly retarded from spec.
To correct this, we:

  • Held the cam steady with the sprocket tool

  • Slightly backed off the sprocket bolts

  • Rotated the sprocket until the dial read 1.25mm at Z1

Once the number held steady through three full crank rotations, we torqued the sprocket bolts to spec.

4. Re-Checking Bank 1

We never rely on a single reading—Porsche timing is all about consistency.

After rotating the crank several times, the gauge still returned 1.25mm on the dot.
Bank 1 locked in.

Timing Bank 2 – Cylinder #4

With the crank rotated back to Z1, we repeated the same process for Bank 2.

The #4 intake rocker was installed, the cam was on its base circle, and the dial gauge was fitted.

This bank measured 1.32mm—slightly advanced—so we backed the sprocket off and adjusted it down to a matching 1.25mm.

After five complete rotations and consistent readings, both banks were perfectly synchronised.

Final Checks

Once both cams were timed, we:

  • Re-set valve clearances

  • Torqued both cam sprockets to final spec

  • Removed chain tensioner locks and applied oil pressure

  • Rotated the engine by hand two more full revolutions

  • Rechecked that Z1 still aligned and that the cams hit the correct lift

The crank rotated smoothly with no hint of valve interference.

Results After Timing Adjustment

Once this 3.2 engine was reassembled and run, the difference was immediate:

  • Quieter valve train

  • Sharper throttle response

  • Smoother idle

  • Stronger pull from 3,000–5,000 rpm

  • Overall engine note became more “classic Carrera” again

It’s always satisfying when a simple adjustment transforms how an air-cooled Porsche feels on the road.

If You’re Rebuilding a Porsche Flat-Six…

We stock thousands of new Porsche parts, including everything we used during this cam timing:

➡️ Timing chain parts
➡️ Carrera engine gaskets & rebuild kits
➡️ Camshaft bolts & hardware
➡️ Chain guides & rails
➡️ Seals, sensors, ignition parts
➡️ Correct Loctite sealants for magnesium and aluminium cases

Browse our Porsche 911 3.2 Engine & Ignition section for full rebuild support.

Want Us to Write More Workshop Guides Like This?

If you want detailed guides for any other Porsche jobs—
valve adjustments, chain tensioners, engine studs, 964/993 distributor drives, gearbox rebuilds, ABS troubleshooting, MFI/EFI tuning—just let us know.

Happy to write a full professional guide any time.

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